Hyaluronic acid is one of the most popular skincare ingredients. It’s also a challenging one to work with. Hyaluronic acid is a very sensitive water-based substance, making it tricky to find the right hyaluronic acid benefits and formulation methods. But thanks to continued research and development, this sensitive substance is now used in an array of skincare products, from serums to masks. Let’s take a closer look at what this unique skincare superstar can do for you.
What is hyaluronic acid?
Hyaluronic acid is a type of non-sulfated glycosaminoglycan (GAG) found naturally in the skin and throughout the body. It is one of the most abundant compounds found in the human body and has a wide range of health benefits. When applied topically, hyaluronic acid is thought to help the skin in multiple ways. It is believed to be able to bind water and increase the hydration of the skin, as well as improve collagen production and reduce inflammation. These properties make it very beneficial for the skin, which is why it is commonly found in skincare products.
How does it benefit your skin?
Hyaluronic acid helps to increase the moisture content of the outermost layer of your skin, the epidermis. This is the layer responsible for your skin’s outward appearance. It is made up of dead cells that are constantly falling off and being replaced by new cells from below. These new cells are made from collagen and water. Hyaluronic acid can help attract water molecules from deeper levels of the skin to the surface, increase your skin’s overall hydration. This is great news for your skin, which is continuously losing water by sweating, evaporation, and other factors. By adding hyaluronic acid to your skincare routine, you can help slow down this process and keep your skin looking plump and full.
Why is hyaluronic acid so difficult to use in skincare?
As we’ve discussed, hyaluronic acid is a sensitive molecule that must be handled with care. It is especially sensitive to heat, which can alter its molecular structure and reduce or even eliminate its skincare benefits. As such, hyaluronic acid is often used in lower concentrations in skincare products. In addition to its heat sensitivity, Hyaluronic Acid is also very sensitive to shear and requires it to be stirred a low shear.
How can you find the right hyaluronic acid product for you?
Because hyaluronic acid is such a sensitive substance, it can be difficult to find the right hyaluronic acid product for your skin type. It’s important to take your skincare goals and skin type into account when shopping for hyaluronic acid products, so you can get the most out of your skincare routine. If you have dry or dehydrated skin, hyaluronic acid will be a great addition to your skincare routine. If you have oily or acne-prone skin, however, you should tread carefully and look for lightweight, non-comedogenic hyaluronic acid products. Additionally, take your skincare goals into account. If you’re looking for anti-aging benefits, look for hyaluronic acid products with a high concentration of this skincare superstar. If you’re simply looking for hydration and plumping benefits, a lower-concentration product will do the trick.
How to dissolve Hyaluronic Acid?
Dissolving sodium hyaluronic acid is the process of breaking down its molecular structure. The dissolution of hyaluronic acid is an important step in the production of skincare products. The viscosity of the sodium hyaluronic acid solution depends on the molecular weight and the solution concentration. When the molecular weight is high, your results will end in a viscous gel so you will only need very small inputs.
Hyaluronic acid is very particular and will only full hydrate in water. The first step in the process of dissolving sodium hyaluronic acid is to weigh out the amount needed. Then you need to carefully add the sodium hyaluronic acid to your water. Hyaluronic acid will not fully hydrate immediately, this is normal, as it takes time for the water to fully wet the particles. Stirring your hyaluronic acid in 2-minute intervals will help it to fully hydrate. This is the main method I use when I am running a little short on time. If time is not an issue, without stirring immediately, I will cover with plastic wrap and allow it to sit until the hyaluronic powder becomes clear. I will then give the water and hyaluronic acid a stir until homogenous and combined. The wait time can be between 2 hours to 24 hours depending on the molecular weight and what input I am adding to my water. Larger batches will obviously require more time. When working with hyaluronic acid the temperature of the solvent should also be considered. The solubility of sodium hyaluronic acid is dependent on the temperature of the solvent. Always ensure that the temperature of your water is <40ºC as it is sensitive to heat. Heating your hyaluronic acid will destroy any benefit it has for the skin and may as well not be added to your formulation. When it comes to stirring your hyaluronic acid, it is very important this is done at low shear, using high shear will irreversibly destroy the particles.
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